The 5 Types of Japanese Work Pants Explained

1. How to understand Japanese work pants silhouettes

When you are at the Nikka Zubon shop, you may be confused by the name of the pants. Indeed, we have different cuts of pants and each cut has a specific name.

In Japan, our pants are generally called nikka pokka, they are worn in the working world. The concept of nikka pokka has been reinvented year after year, resulting in a wide range of designs. Indeed, the nikka pokka have a mission to answer various professional uses. Each cup has its own characteristic.

In order to better understand these notions, here is a guide in which we would like to present you these different cuts of pants. This article is composed in 3 parts, a brief presentation of each cut, their characteristics and a look recommendation. 

We hope you can find your ideal pants.

 

The 5 cuts of pants:

1. Jodhpurs
2. Edo-Style Tobi
3. Shichibu
4. Nikka
5. Tobi

 

Before we get into the explanation, we'd like to draw your attention to one specific point. These 5 cuts of pants have one thing in common: they are all wide from the waist to the knees. The word nikka pokka comes from knickerbockers, knickers means knee in English.

Now let's see the characteristics of each of them.

 

2. Jodhpurs

History

The Jodhpurs cut is a riding pant (乗馬 joba pants in Japanese). Its origins date back to the 19th century, and are said to have originated in the military pants of northern India. In the jargon of Tobi shokunin we identify the pants in 3 major groups: Nikka pokka, Shichibu and Joba. These pants are mainly worn by Japanese landscapers.

Characteritics 

Jodhpurs Pants feature a silhouette that is fuller through the thighs and gradually tapers below the knee, creating a close fit around the lower leg. This construction combines freedom of movement with a clean, streamlined appearance.

The fitted lower leg creates a refined profile while allowing the pants to pair naturally with both shoes and boots. An ankle zipper ensures a secure fit and helps maintain the silhouette’s elegant shape.

Style tips

The tapered lower leg creates a clean silhouette that pairs easily with both shoes and boots. Because the volume is controlled, Jodhpurs Pants work particularly well with simple, well-fitted tops such as button-down shirts, knit polos, lightweight sweaters, or tailored jackets.

Rather than making a bold statement, this silhouette brings quiet sophistication to an outfit, making it one of the most versatile styles in the collection.

• Impression : A clean, tapered silhouette that feels familiar yet refined.
  
• For who : For those who want a subtle introduction to Japanese workwear without being too bold.
• When to wear : Ideal for everyday wear, travel, and situations where balance and versatility matter.

> View Jodhpurs Pants Collection

 

3. Edo-Style Tobi

History

The Edo-Style Tobi cup is a slimmer version of Tobi. In Japan, it is common that each region has its own version of a product. We find this phenomenon in various fields such as culinary specialties between the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe) and the Kanto region (Tokyo formerly called Edo). In the same way, this version of Tobi was created.

Characteristics

Edo-Style Tobi Pants offer a more balanced interpretation of the traditional Tobi silhouette. While retaining the characteristic volume associated with Japanese workwear, the cut is more restrained and streamlined than standard Tobi Pants.

The silhouette is secured at the ankle with traditional buttons rather than zippers, adding a distinctive visual detail and a touch of classic craftsmanship. The result is a shape that feels both practical and refined.

The result is a silhouette that bridges traditional Japanese workwear and contemporary style—a balance that has become a signature of the Nikka Zubon collection.

Style tips

The long, straight silhouette creates a balanced proportion that naturally elongates the legs while maintaining a refined appearance. Compared with more dramatic workwear silhouettes, Edo-Style Tobi Pants feel particularly at home in urban settings.

Pair them with a tucked-in shirt, lightweight jacket, or structured overshirt to emphasize the clean vertical lines. This silhouette offers a distinctive look without feeling overly dramatic.

• Impression : A structured silhouette that balances tradition and modern wearability.
• For who : For those who appreciate design, but still want something grounded and wearable.
• When to wear : Perfect for city wear, creative work environments, and elevated casual outfits.

> View Edo-Style Tobi Pants Collection

 

4. Shichibu

History

The cut called Shichibu means 7/10th, that is to say the ratio between the flared and straight part of the pants. It is the first workwear model resulting from the mix between Dutch knickerbockers and Japanese hakama.

Characteristics

Shichibu Pants are distinguished by their unique proportions and shorter silhouette. The volume tapers sharply around the knee, creating a dramatic contrast between the sculpted upper section and the slimmer lower leg.

This distinctive construction emphasizes the shape of the silhouette itself, producing one of the most recognizable and unconventional forms in Japanese workwear. The shorter length further enhances the visual impact of the design.

Style tips

Shichibu Pants feature one of the most distinctive silhouettes in the collection, with dramatic volume around the knees that narrows sharply below. The result is a sculptural shape that changes character as you move.

To let the silhouette stand out, pair them with simple tops and low-profile footwear such as leather shoes, sneakers, or ankle boots. These pants work best when they become the focal point of the outfit.

For those who enjoy expressing individuality through clothing, Shichibu Pants offer a uniquely artistic presence.

• Impression : A sculptural silhouette that shifts between sharp structure and soft volume depending on movement.
• For who : For those who see clothing as expression rather than function alone.
• When to wear : Best for styling-focused outfits, creative spaces, and moments where individuality matters.

> View Shichibu Pants Collection

 

5. Nikka

History

The Nikka cut comes from knickerbockers worn by the Dutch in New York. These pants were developed and worn in many ways, for example for golf, mountaineering etc. In Japan, Nikka was taken over for work wear. Nowadays, Nikka is more versatile than other cuts, they are found in different fields such as matsuri (traditional dancing festivities), painters etc.

Characteristics

Nikka Pants feature a straight, generously cut silhouette that maintains its volume all the way to the ankle. Originally developed for freedom of movement in demanding work environments, the design combines comfort, durability, and practicality.

The adjustable ankle closure allows the hem to be tightened when needed, helping to keep the silhouette secure while preserving its distinctive shape.

Style tips

Nikka Pants are defined by their generous volume and freedom of movement. Unlike silhouettes that rely on sharp tapering or dramatic shaping, Nikka Pants create a relaxed yet confident presence through balance and proportion.

Their versatility allows them to work equally well with a simple T-shirt, an overshirt, or a structured jacket. Pairing them with a fitted top emphasizes the distinctive volume of the legs, while a looser top creates a more relaxed and contemporary silhouette.

Whether worn casually or as part of a more considered outfit, Nikka Pants embody the functional freedom at the heart of Japanese workwear.

• Impression : The most functional and foundational silhouette in the Nikka Zubon system.
• For who : For those who value durability, structure, and purpose-driven design.
• When to wear : Suitable for both work and everyday life where reliability and comfort are essential.

> View Nikka Pants Collection

 

6. Tobi

History

A longer variation of Shichibu was born a few years later, the young craftsmen wished to have more stylish and fashionable pants, that's how the so-called Hachibu cut was born, meaning 8/10th. Hachibu have several lengths, Hachibu cho-long (8/10th very long), Hachibu chocho-long (8/10th very very long) etc. For simplicity, we call this cut just by "Tobi". These pants are the most common, it was often taken up by the manga culture in the 80s and 90s.

Characteristics

Tobi Pants are defined by their distinctive flared shape below the knee, creating volume around the calves while maintaining a secure fit at the ankle. This unique construction was originally developed to provide freedom of movement while working at height.

The silhouette creates a strong visual presence and a sense of dynamism that sets it apart from conventional trousers. An ankle zipper allows the pants to be put on and removed easily while maintaining their characteristic shape.

Style tips

Tobi Pants are designed to create a striking silhouette with dramatic volume around the calves. The result is a powerful shape that naturally draws attention and adds movement to every step.

To highlight the silhouette, pair them with a more fitted or streamlined top. The contrast between a clean upper body and the sculptural volume below creates a strong, confident look.

Among all Japanese workwear silhouettes, Tobi Pants are perhaps the most expressive—ideal for those who appreciate clothing that makes a statement without sacrificing function.

• Impression : A bold, highly architectural silhouette that creates strong visual presence.
• For who : For those who want to stand out and embrace a distinctive silhouette.
• When to wear : Ideal for fashion-forward outfits, styling experiments, and statement looks.

> View Tobi Pants Collection

 

7. Conclusion

In summary, these different cuts will bring you different silhouettes, taking into account your different morphologies, your sets and your imagination you will manage to create unique sets.

We hope to have given you more elements to let you try our pants.